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Weeds & pests

Identify problems, protect your crops and keep your plot under control.

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YOUR GROWING PLANNER

What I’m growing

Checking your saved crops…

IDENTIFY AND ACT

Start with the problem

Browse weed and pest identification guides, practical control methods and crop protection advice.

REFERENCE CATALOGUE

Find a weed or pest

Search by name, crop or symptom. Start with the likely cause, then check the detailed guide.

Weeds

31

Identify common weeds and find the best way to control them.

Pests

30

See what may be damaging your crops and how to manage it.

WEEDING METHODS

Which method should I use?

Match the method to the weed, soil and stage of growth.

Hand pulling

Best for: Small annual weeds and loose rooted seedlings.

Avoid for: Large patches of deep rooted perennials.

When: After rain when the soil releases roots.

Effort: Low · Speed: Immediate

Long-term: Good when repeated before seed set.

Precise around crops. Slow on a neglected bed.

Hoeing

Best for: Young annual weeds between rows.

Avoid for: Wet soil or weeds close to shallow roots.

When: On a dry day while weeds are small.

Effort: Low · Speed: Immediate

Long-term: Excellent little-and-often control.

Fast and low disturbance. Misses established roots.

Digging out roots

Best for: Taproots, crowns and rhizomatous weeds.

Avoid for: Dense crops where roots are intertwined.

When: Before planting or after rain.

Effort: High · Speed: One session plus checks

Long-term: Strong if every root is removed.

Removes the source. Can disturb soil and crop roots.

Mulching and covering

Best for: Bare beds, paths and persistent infestations.

Avoid for: Freshly sown rows needing light.

When: After clearing and before regrowth.

Effort: Medium · Speed: Several weeks

Long-term: Very good while cover remains intact.

Suppresses light and saves time. Needs checking at edges.

Stale seedbed

Best for: Weedy ground before sowing.

Avoid for: Beds needed immediately.

When: Prepare, water, wait, then hoe before sowing.

Effort: Medium · Speed: 2–4 weeks

Long-term: Reduces early competition, not perennial weeds.

Reduces the first flush. Requires planning.

Repeated cutting

Best for: Tall perennial weeds where roots cannot yet be lifted.

Avoid for: Annual weeds already carrying seed.

When: Cut regrowth before flowering throughout the season.

Effort: Medium · Speed: Months

Long-term: Useful suppression for persistent patches.

Gradually weakens reserves. Requires patience and repeat visits.

What’s eating my crops?

Seedlings disappearing overnightPossible causes: Slugs and snailsCutwormsBirds
Sticky or curled leavesPossible causes: AphidsWhitefly
Tunnels in roots or fruitPossible causes: Carrot flyWirewormCodling moth
White insects flying from leavesPossible causes: WhiteflyCabbage white butterflies
Tiny shot holes in leavesPossible causes: Flea beetlesPea and bean weevil
Silvery streaks or mottled leavesPossible causes: ThripsRed spider miteLeaf miners
Plants wilting despite wateringPossible causes: Cabbage root flyVine weevilWireworm
Bird-pecked crops or fruitPossible causes: Pigeons and other birdsRabbits
Whole young plants eatenPossible causes: Slugs and snailsRabbitsMice

Keeping on top of weeds

Little and often works best: remove seedlings before they establish, hoe open ground in suitable dry conditions, mulch exposed soil and keep paths from reseeding beds. Treat bindweed, couch grass and other persistent weeds separately—dig or cover carefully and expect repeat visits.

A simple weekly weed routine

5 minutes: check paths and bed edges. 10 minutes: hoe small annual weeds between established crops. 10 minutes: hand-remove weeds close to crops. 5 minutes: check persistent weeds and remove regrowth.

Prevent problems before they start

Rotate crops, keep spacing sensible, inspect plants regularly, use mesh or fleece where it helps, control weeds before they seed and protect habitat for natural predators.